March 2009: We got stuck in the ‘poor-man-mindset’ for a while, and were discussing while in New Zealand & Australia last year, whether we would buy ourselves a full body board set (rash top, fins, board, board bag) or not – we really wanted to, but it was a lot of money and what would we do with everything once we left a few months later?
Luckily, we got over ourselves, bought the boards and fins (plus a mega huge board bag..!) and had the time of our lives.
Honestly, I was completely freaked out by the whole surfing thing at the start, and once Nathan showed me some ‘real’ waves my first thought was “Is this guy crazy?”
With my legs shaking and my heart jumping I paddled out. And got wiped out. Paddled again. Wiped out. “It gets easier once you get past the waves!” Nathan yelled out.
After having swallowed half the ocean, I finally learned how to get passed the waves, and pretty soon I was even starting to enjoy it.
The peace you experience in the early morning hours out there in the water is a feeling you can’t describe other than that you feel like a free spirit. You feel the connection with nature, you realize what life is really all about – you feel that freedom of life.
It’s just as much of a mental challenge as a physical one, and if you don’t stay focused you’ll give up – giving myself another month and I had fallen deeply in love with this *sport* – thanks to Nathan and the beautiful waves we experienced together.
Have you fallen in love with a sport on your travels? Tell us about it!
Here is a video of Nathan – well see if you can SPOT Nathan somewhere in all the big waves – a bit too scary for me!